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The Cantor's Voice
July 2007


It was with great excitement that Laura and I embarked on a recent trip to Italy. Neither of us had been since college and had not been to Europe since those days. Our kids stayed with my mother-in-law and off we went.

Our trip focused on three major cities, Florence, Venice and Rome, as well as Tuscany. To say that the food in Italy is good is kind of like saying that Steve Nash plays basketball. Every meal was incredible, including the grilled panini sandwiches we ate in the roadside cafe (if you can call it that) next to the gas station in Bologna (we were temporarily lost, no, check that-confused).

Security around Jewish sites in Italy is quite visible. All major Jewish sites are protected by the Italian police. This policy was put in place after a terrorist incident in Rome committed by the PLO in 1982.

We visited the synagogues in both Florence and Rome. The Great Synagogue in Florence was completed in 1882, and it is magnificent. A museum is incorporated into the synagogue, as well as a gift shop. The synagogue was desecrated during WWII, and although it has since been restored, there are still bayonet marks in the Aron Kodesh, left as a memorial to those horrific times.

We arrived in Venice on a Friday afternoon, and quickly made our way through the maze of streets to the ghetto. In 1516 a decree by the Venetian Governor decreed that Jews had to live in this area. They were permitted to leave during the day, but had to return at night to sleep. The conditions were oppressive, yet the Jews there did the best they could under these difficult circumstances.

I remember being told that there was a kosher restaurant in the area, and after inquiring after we arrived, we made our way to "Gam-Gam" kosher restaurant, just outside of the ghetto proper. The restaurant is essentially an Israeli restaurant, and run under the auspices of the local Chabad (of course!) We had a great meal there.

The Synagogue of Rome is spectacular. Again, it is fenced off and under police protection. The museum inside the synagogue complex has the most remarkable collection of Torah cover mantles anywhere in the world. Dozen upon dozen of these mantles hang in a glass enclosed cabinet.

As Jewish workers were severely restricted in the occupations they could be involved in, they were still able to work in the garment business, and they put these skills to work to fashion these most ornate and gorgeous Torah scroll covers anywhere in the world.

The Jewish community of Rome numbers over 14,000, and we were delighted to learn that over 800 students attend the Jewish day school there, a short walk from the Great Synagogue, across the Ponte Sisto. The community, although small, is thriving, with 1/2 dozen or so kosher restaurants, 10-12 synagogues (Ashkenazic, Sephardic and Italian) and other communal organizations.

We had a beautiful time, and look forward, God-willing, to returning again in the near future.

Have a wonderfully restful and relaxing summer.

Keith Miller
Hazzan
Director of Education


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